As I wrote earlier; The customer support from Infinity Hobby is excellent, and I received my Gaui 330X the same day as I wrote the previous post. Took me 3 hours to finish the build and this is the first video I’ve shoot using the GoPro HD cam and the 330X.
Recently I ordered a QuadFlyer 330X made by GAUI from an unknown hobby shop in Taiwan named Infinity Hobby. I also ordered a “Aero Spy Conversion Kit” that is basically a new landing gear accommodated to hold a camera. This morning the parcel is on a plane somewhere heading for Europe and I got this email from customer support at Infinity Hobby:
Dear Paul,
We are sending you this email because you purchased our 330X Aero Spy Conversion Kit in your order #xxxxx. We just realized GAUI have revised their 330X kit a bit in the gear mount after our Aero Spy Conversion Kits were made. This will cause the problem that the mounting holes of CF Landing Gear legs in the conversion kit are not able to fit the revised 330X kit. We are asking the factory to revise the landing gear legs accordingly and urgently, and will send you the update pack with the revised legs in a couple days probably within next week.
By the way, we also noticed the originally packing list of the Spy Conversion Kit does not include the mounting bolt for camera. As people may have difficulty in find the suitable screw locally by their own, we will include the screw in the kit. This screw will also be included in the update pack.
Feel free to let us know if you have further questions anytime. We will appreciate any comments or advice you’d care to give. Sorry for any inconvenience caused.
Have a great weekend!
Regards,
Infinity Hobby
I’m amazed. This is what I’ll call up-front customer support. Instead of leaving me stranded and frustrated when I receive my package they make sure I’m still a happy customer that of course will talk positively about their business. As a co-worker of mine pointed out; This is just as great as IKEA’s return policy.
Crazy me have been thinking about this for some time now. Those who know me know that I’m trying to make a part time business taking photographs from the air using RC model aircrafts. I have a dedicated page for some of the videos I’ve been making at http://paulrene.no/index.php/aerial-photography/. I even set up a page for my business at http://settfraluften.no (Norwegian only).
Anyway; During spring this year I got hold of a Sun Spot development kit and I’ve been playing around with it for a while. When writing a program to control servos using the built in accelerometer the idea struck me that this would be a nice platform for an autopilot. I’ve never worked in this field before so this is all new to me and a bit of a challenge. But if I can pull this of it would be a nice project and maybe something that would inspire others to do the same and improve it.
One of the first things I did was to assemble a list of parts:
Aerial photography (AP) from radio controlled (RC) airplanes is one of my hobbies and I always seek to increase my toolbox and expand my operating radius. The other day I was browsing the shelfs at my local hardware store when I walked past this UHF antenna.
It immediately catched my eye and my brain started visualizing a how this pile of aluminum pieces could fit together creating a airplane. It was constructed from 2 long square tubed aluminum rods joined by a bracket. It would greatly simplify transportation if I could detach the 2 rods when driving to and from locations.
I did not use all the parts from the antenna as I needed only 2 “cross over” bars to work as a base to put the wing on. I could even remove the metal parts of them and leave only the black plastic pieces, but as I’ve overpowered this plane I ain’t too afraid of a little excess weight.
I removed the electronics from the connection box and fastened a carbon fiber landing gear. I can now easily fasten it to the aluminum rod and move it forward or backward depending on my load. Putting everything together from the antenna and landing gear I get this.
I then started on the elevator and rudder construction. I scaled the template for the Beasts/Solution (by Mike “Power”) to about 70% and dropped the carbon reinforcements on the lower side (I had no space for this).
Remaining work included assembling all the parts together, wire up the electronics and create a engine mount. I also had to add the servos for the elevator and rudder and cut a wing from a piece of EPS foam. If anyone is interested in how to cut their own foam wings please let me know, and I’ll consider doing a tutorial on it.
The finished plane with battery and receiver looks like this..
She had her first flight on 22. May, 2008 and it flew perfectly after some minor adjustments of the ESC and radio antenna mounts.
I’ve been passionate RC-pilot for the last year and started early on to attach my digital camera to the plane. I do a lot of videos from Bærum and I’ve now collected them on a single page to make them easier to find. And I do have a Aerial Photography license from Nasjonal Sikkerhets Myndighet, the Norwegian authority governing all data gathering from aerial sensors. Heavy stuff, but nice to have if someone makes a fuzz about it.
This is a small tutorial describing how to use a RC gear to trigger a Canon Camera loaded with the CHDK add on firmware. Using CHDK enables you to write scripts that can run triggered by a 4 volt current on the USB port of the camera.
List of parts:
1x old servo
USB mini-B cable
RC-transmitter
RC-receiver
To make an remote controlled trigger I started by disassembling an old HXT 9g servo.
Be very careful not to destroy any of the wires. I removed all the gears, but kept the pot wires attached so I could adjust the center point.
I then removed the two green wires and used a multimeter to determine the polarity. Then I connected the wires to a spare USB mini-b connector.
There are 4 types of USB connectors. The Canon cameras using the Mini-B type. The pin descriptions according to Wikipedia are described in this table.
Pin
Name
Cable colour
Description
1
VCC
Red
+5V
2
D−
White
Data −
3
D+
Green
Data +
4
GND
Black
Ground
Connect the positive servo motor cable to pin 1 (red wire) and the negative motor cable to pin 4 (ground). You should check and double check your wiring using a multimeter. Attach a receiver and battery to your servo and test that giving you’ll get about 4.2 volts on one side of the stick and -4.2 volts on the other. Remember the correct stick movement to generate the positive voltage. If your transmitter is programmable, remove the stick movement that gives your the negative voltage or be very careful when using remote trigger.
Now it’s time to upload a script to your camera and check if it all work.
@title Remote button
:loop
wait_click 1
is_key k "remote"
if k=1 then shoot
goto "loop"
end
Create a file in /chdk/scripts/ folder of your SD card called remotetest.bas and enabled it in the scripting menu of the camera (after enabling the ALT-menu).
Attach the cables and power up the transmitter, receiver and servo. Hit the shutter button on the camera to start the script and then use the stick on the transmitter to trigger the running of the script.
Congratulations! You now have a non-mechanical way to trigger your CHDK enabled Canon camera.
I’ve been putting this off for too long, and I know a lot of people have been requesting this for a while, so here we go. I’ve split the tutorial in 2 parts. Part one cover finding the correct CHDK build and installing it on your camera, the second part is about scripting and building a remote USB trigger. The CHDK project is a firmware add on for Canon’s Digic II and Digic III cameras unleashing the hidden power in your cheap or medium priced camera such as RAW format, live histograms, Zebra mode, battery indicators and my personal favorite, scripting!
Part 1 - Finding the correct build and install it on your camera
First of all, the modifications we are about to do is not permanent. You may at any time disable or uninstall the CHDK firmware. By removing the write protection on your SD card you disable the auto load of CHDK. And by deleting the CHDK files from the SD card, you totally removes any traces of it. After getting used to CHDK, you’ll hardly want to remove it, but now it’s been said
CHDK’s home page is located at http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/CHDK and this is where our search for the correct CHDK build starts. Every camera model need a different build of CHDK, because they all are a little different internally. Customizing CHDK for a new camera model is a complex and time consuming task, so I encourage you to show your gratitude by writing about it on their thank you page.
As of today (3. May, 2008) these are the supported (See the CHDK page for an updated list) cameras:
The version number in green refers to the original firmware version of your camera. You need to now this to be able to find the correct CHDK build for your camera.
Locating the original firmware version of your camera
Create a file called ver.req in root directory of your SD card using a card reader and your computer. This could be an empty text file, but remember that the file extension must be .req for this to work
Put the card back into the camera and turn on the playback mode (Don’t turn it into rec mode first and then play, playback mode must be the first mode after power on)
Press and hold the SET button, then press DISPLAY while keeping both buttons pressed
If this is done correctly you’ll see a text string that looks like Firmware Ver GM1.00E. The “1.00E” is the firmware version you need to remember when downloading the CHDK for your camera. Note: Some cameras even support a file called vers.req that will allow you to even view more information about your camera.
Downloading CHDK
Go to http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/Downloads and search for your camera. Download the version that matches the firmware version that you found in the last step.
Installing CHDK on your camera
Extract the PS.fir and Diskboot.bin files into the root directory of your SD card using your card reader and your computer
Put the SD card back into the camera
Enabling / Starting CHDK manually
Start the camera in playback mode
Press the MENU button
Go to the new menu entry called “Firm Update” (probably the last item in the menu list)
Select that item and confirm you want to update by selecting “OK”
The camera will now reboot and you’ll see CHDK’s splash screen when it boots up again
Auto enabling CHDK every time you turn on your camera